Who doesn’t love a new bike? A foam-wrapped collection of parts in a cardboard box can be transformed into a tool used for recreation, competition and, exercise; however, bikes do break down on the road, even if you are taking all maintenance and preventative measures. Repairs on the road are a necessary part of the game, and being prepared for an eventual mechanical failure is something that all seasoned cyclists account for. Read on to prepare yourself for impromptu breakdowns and hiccups.

Crankarms can be notorious for loosening, especially one equipped on a new bike. The use of pinch bolts can help prevent loosening, but should always be checked regardless. Old square tapers are more prone to loosen, so make sure to check the crankarm after each long ride. Make sure to always carry an appropriate hex wrench, which generally range from 8mm to 10mm. You can carry all of your tools in a small pouch affixed to the seat post.

A wobbly wheel can slow you down and eventually cause damage to the spokes if not taken care of. Spokes, especially new ones, have a tendency to stretch, causing the nipples to bed into the rim. This can result in a wheel going out of true. To remedy this, run your hand over the spokes midway between the hub and rim while the wheel

Usually when a tire tears, the inner tube will pop through the compromised tire. Many cyclists choose to carry an extra inner tube (or two) with them during very long rides to prepare for the worst. You should also carry a patch kit to make sure you are never unprepared. You’ll need to reinforce the tire in the spot where it tore. A patch kit, duct tape, or mylar wrappers can do in a pinch. Don’t forget to replace the tire when you get home!

A loose pedal can result in the destruction of the threads and a rounding of the hole, which can absolutely destroy your crank. To avoid a repair bill, snug the pedal into the arm. If the hole is still round with minimal damage to the last few threads, try to thread the bike pedal into the hole from the back end of the crank and remove it. This can result in a re-cut of the damaged threads, which may allow you to install the pedal from the correct side.

A tweaked hanger can upset the alignment of the rear derailleur and cause poor shifting. If you decide to keep riding, shift the rear derailleur to the rear wheel. A large number of bikes have replaceable hanger, which are designed to bend or break in the event of a crash or tip-over. To straighten a bent derailleur hanger, shift it to the smallest cog and use a hex wrench in the bolt to bend the hanger until it aligns with the cog. Slowly shift to 2nd gear and make sure the derailleur aligns with the cog. The low limit screw can be adjusted so the derailleur won’t go past the cog, which prevents the bike from shifting to the lowest gear. This will make sure that you won’t ruin your bike’s wheel, frame, or derailleur.

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